by Billy Budd (William H. Bradshaw)
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Secrets of the Pink Kush
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Partial Video Transcript
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Secrets of the Pink Kush: How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds
by Billy Budd (William H. Bradshaw)
The information in this video and/or transcript can be found in my book Secrets of the Pink Kush by William H. Bradshaw and is available in hard copy or e-book on Amazon.com. Please be advised that the book may be banned from some book stores in some countries due to the many secrets and/or content revealed in this three volume textbook for advanced students wishing to become Master Growers. This video describes the general processes for germinating cannabis seeds to eventually grow out as a medicinal herb.
Creating Your Own Seeds:
I created my own seeds out of necessity for medical grade genetic quality. I could not find any high quality seeds, in my opinion. I did a lot of research into the genetics of many strains including genetically modified organisms and found that:
1. Seeds were just imitations of the real strains which are clone only. The seed companies were relying on the reputation of somebody else. They were essentially lying about their seeds.
2. Seeds were not properly bred for high quality in terms of taste and potency.
3. Seeds had extremely bad genetics from ruderalis or afghanica.
4. True F1 hybrids were really hard to find as indica has been bred into most of the strains.
5. The few good seeds were poor yielding and/or had much longer flowering times.
6. Strains with excellent reputation were usually tetraploid plants that were clone only. They turned out to be extremely difficult to grow and were not economically viable.
7. I wanted a medical grade, connoisseur quality cannabis with good yields. This is extremely hard to do.
How to Germinate Marijuana Seeds:
1. You can pre-soak your seeds in a glass of distilled water or water that has sat out for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate. When the seeds sink, usually overnight, they are ready for germination. Be careful because they can drown if left in too long.
2. Put two dish plates together to form a clam shell that will not allow light to penetrate.
3. Place thermostat inside plates for monitoring.
4. Place seeds in moist paper towels – use distilled water or tonic water (CO2 + H2O).
5. Keep internal temperature at 78 degrees Fahrenheit using light or heat lamp or heating pad.
6. Make sure paper towels always stay moist, not wet, not dry.
7. Check for tap root after 2 days – avoid getting light on seeds when checking. It can take several days for seeds to crack.
8. Carefully remove the seed and plant about 1 inch deep in large soil pot and cover with soil. A larger pot allows for better root development and faster, healthier growth so go as large as possible and minimize your transplanting.
9. Water carefully when the top of the soil gets dry (use distilled water)
10. Start feeding with a weak nutrient solution after the first true set of leaves appear. DO NOT REMOVE THE SHELL HUSK as it will eventually fall off after the food source has been depleted. You may kill the seedling if you remove it prematurely.
11. Remember that the cotyledon (round) leaves contain the food/energy source and will provide enough nutrients until the first true set of leaves appear.
12. Keep seedlings 36″ away for 1000 Watt Metal Halide light; 24″ for 600 Watt Metal Halide light; 2 inches for 150 Watt CFL. Slowly move the light away to allow the plant to stretch toward the light.
13. Keep your CO2 levels low (500 PPM) when the plants are young. Gradually increase to 1500 PPM when fully grown.
14. If you want high yield, high quality, healthy plants then you must give seedlings enough quality soil, light and nutrients. I always use larger pots and 1000 Watt Metal Halide lights. You cannot grow a plant under CFLs and then throw it under High Pressure Sodium lights for flowering and expect good results. Champions are developed from good genetics and good conditions